Miyajima, an island in Hiroshima Bay, captivated me in 2017 when I squeezed in a visit before the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

This year I stayed overnight. Miyajima is mostly mountains and jungle touched in many places, like so much of Japan, by centuries of Japanese spirituality and culture.

Miyajima’s immense popularity as a tourist destination has resulted in a congested waterfront labyrinth of hotels, shops, cafes, bars and homes, close to the ferry terminal.

Throughout the world Miyajima is associated with the iconic Torii gate in the water (only at high tide it must be said).